Wi5 ice climbing reddit Highly technical. For fans of ice climbing. Frisch did have a contingency plan, should things have gotten out of control. 3 years and 3 attempts later, finally ticked off The Sorcerer (WI5). 4K votes, 34 comments. So. com Jun 23, 2023 · I climbed in the vicinity of 100 pitches of ice, mixed and dry this winter across Northern Wyoming, Utah and Montana. WI5: Long and strenuous, with a ropelength of 85-90 degrees ice offering few good rests; or a shorter pitch of thin or bad ice with protection that's difficult to place. Temps -5c, no wind, approach WI4 75m pitch shelled/hollow and thin; i placed two stubbies and two tied-off 13’s. WI5 is defined as "Long and strenuous, with a rope length of 85º-90º ice offering few good rests; or a shorter pitch of thin or bad ice with protection that’s difficult to place. The home of Climbing on reddit. WI 5: Long and strenuous, with a ropelength of 85º-90º ice offering few good rests; or a shorter pitch of thin or bad ice with reasonable protection that’s difficult to place. WI6: A full ropelength of near-90 degree ice with no rests, or a shorter pitch even more tenuous than WI 5. Likewise, climbing boots aren’t comfortable to hike in due to the stiff shank (painful on your ankles and arches), and climbing crampons feel the same. Dec 2, 2010 · WI 4: Multiple pitches of continuous 80º ice, or a single pitch containing fairly long sections of 90º ice broken up by occasional rests. For the first two seasons all I did was top rope. My first season I would TR solo at the local crag a few days a week. " . My original goal for the season was to become comfortable on WI4 and begin leading WI5, and by the end of the year I had a handful of WI5 on-sights and traditional mixed leads up to M6. Attempt one was a seized engine in remote wilderness while 4x4ing to the start of the approach, attempt two we bailed from the cave midway due to sun rotted ice late in the season, and attempt 3 everything worked out. WI4 climbing is best done in a full-shank boot and a climbing crampon with a stiff center bar. Upper pitches (WI5/WI5) micro-mushroomed (good feet!) and chandeliered, with good protection. My biggest personal ice climbing accomplishment thus far was leading all of West Gully in Rocky Mountain National Park (WI3-4, 600ft, III). As others said, you can still do it, it’s just more difficult, more tiring. 48 votes, 12 comments. So if we're being pedantic, in my opinion it's technically impossible to top-rope WI5. I have been leading for the past two years and feel very comfortable leading WI3. 11K subscribers in the iceclimbing community. Dec 20, 2022 · Pat Lindsay ice climbing Arian P'tit Gremlin, WI5 300m, a Guy Lacelle First Ascent in Protection Valley, Alberta, Canada Photo: Tim Banfield Arian P’tit Gremlin [ V WI 5–6; 300 meters ] Tucked away from the watchful eyes of conditions-obsessed ice climbers is Protection Valley, between Banff and Lake Louise. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. 12K subscribers in the iceclimbing community. One thing to note is the actual description of WI grades. See full list on ascentionism. Making these videos helps me review my form and catch mistakes in my ice climbing - perhaps they may be insightful for others too? Full climb with commentary Feb 3, 2020 · It’s as good a reason as any, considering that there are rarely seas above ice climbs. And yes we are scared of falling. For some context, I was putting in about 60-100 days of ice climbing every year and winter in the Canadian Rockies lasts from November until April. 191 votes, 23 comments. That said, I started comfortably leading WI5 in my second/third-ish season. . He explained on Mountain Project, “The line to the right is a rope I set up an hour before I climbed with the sea kayak, in case a crampon broke or I got scared and wanted to I have been climbing ice for four years. 1. urnv kgjwmba agvk dbobh fohfjdp thihquup hrwri ibc aqobjj lxtvz